In the northwest Ethiopian region of Amhara, where months of conflict have taken a toll, the festivities for the Orthodox Christian celebration of epiphany, known as Timkat in the Amhara language, have witnessed a somber tone this year.
Local sentiments reflect the grim reality, as expressed by a tuktuk driver who, wishing to remain anonymous, questioned the appropriateness of celebration amid widespread suffering: “How can you celebrate when many people are dying?”
In previous years, up to 250,000 people enthusiastically participated in Timkat celebrations, underscoring the cultural significance of the event in Ethiopia, where approximately 35 percent of the population adheres to the Ethiopian Orthodox Church.
As one of the oldest churches globally, the Ethiopian Orthodox Church marks the celebration of Jesus Christ’s baptism by John the Baptist as a major event. Gondar, specifically, holds unique significance, culminating in a collective dip in the baths at the castle of Emperor Fasilides, who founded the city in the 17th century.
Traditionally attracting both locals and tourists, this year’s celebrations in Gondar on Friday were notably subdued compared to previous years. Only a fraction of the usual crowd, barely a thousand worshippers, participated in the procession of the city’s 44 churches, carrying eight sacred arches to the Fasilides Baths.
Dereje Mengesha, a 27-year-old lecturer at Gondar University, lamented the subdued atmosphere: “This year, because of the political tension, it wasn’t colorful. I have celebrated Timkat for many years, but today the number of people attending the celebration has significantly decreased.”
The ongoing political tensions in Amhara involve clashes between the federal government and the local nationalist militia known as the “Fano.” The Fano, feeling betrayed by the federal government, had previously fought alongside federal forces against Tigray enemies.
A peace deal signed in November 2022 with dissidents in the neighboring region of Tigray led to tensions, and an attempt by the federal government to disarm the Fano and other Amhara forces in April sparked violence. Just last week, the Fano launched an incursion into the city of Gondar, causing further distress among its 500,000 residents.
“People are dying every day. People in Gondar are grieving,” expressed the anonymous tuktuk driver, highlighting the profound impact of the conflict on the local population.
